enkes winch manual

enkes winch manual

It allows documents to display on devices without pdf viewers specifically mobile devices, a new Google requirement. Note also that some documents have blank pages.No personal information is saved. I do not collect statistics on your visit. You can disable cookies in your browser if you like but it is not recommended for this site. I do not sell cookies. Go to a bakery for that. In fact I do not sell anything. To disable cookies from L-36.com, please refer to the Help button in your browser. Privacy Policy: I do not sell or share any user data or anything else for that matter. The only personal information I save is in the site log which has a line for each page view which includes the IP address your browser sends in the header as well as which page you requested. I use this to block hackers and other bad actors. I do not use this raw data to create profiles on users. I periodically delete the log files.Because I do not track who you are, I cannot customize how these ads are served. They may be personalized to improve the ad experience. If you do not want personalized ads, please adjust the settings on the Google site HERE.. NOTE: The best I can determine, this site is not subject to CCPA but I am doing my best to comply anyway.It is for entertainment purposes only and should be independently verified before using for any other reason. There are five sources. 1) Documents and manuals from a variety of sources. These have not been checked for accuracy and in many cases have not even been read by anyone associated with L-36.com. I have no idea of they are useful or accurate, I leave that to the reader. 2) Articles others have written and submitted. If you have questions on these, please contact the author. 3) Articles that represent my personal opinions. These are intended to promote thought and for entertainment. These are not intended to be fact, they are my opinions. 4) Small programs that generate result presented on a web page.http://mtt-association.fr/upload/dl140-g3-manual.xml

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Posts: 767Anyone have any leads on these winches or who might have taken them over? ThanksBoat: Contest 48. Posts: 995Just before we left for Mexico last January, I saw on-line where Enke was going to open a web presence. Obviously, they haven't and I'm probably going to wind up with twelve Enke winches and one Anderson. Fair winds and calm seas.Boat: Rhodes Reliant 41ft. Posts: 4,131I, for one, have never heard of them. Maybe I can ask some of my rigger friends, and hit paydirt for you.Boat: A Thistle and a Hallberg-Rassy 36. Posts: 767They appear to be of very high quality, but I'm no expert on winches. Well, unless they don’t deserve it.I am trying to remove it but have run into a snag. Was able to remove the circle clip and remove the cover and the pawls. But I see no way of removing the drum. Have searched high and low for information but am coming up empty. Anyone out there have any info on this particular winch?Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Perhaps that allows access to what you're talking about. Bad thing is I have remove the drum to get at the bolts holding it to the mast.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Nothing really there in tearing this little bugger down. I'll keep fooling around. I am sure I'll get to the bottom of this. I am leading all of the lines to the cockpit to make singlehanding easier. I wanted to use this on the starboard cabin top. I did get a Lewmar 7 to go on the portside cabintop for halyards and reefing lines. Well, unless they don’t deserve it.I sent an email to Holland Marine-Products located in Mississauga Ontario and did receive a reply from them regarding this winch. Was told to rotate and pull at the same time. Holy Moly, they also have spare parts for these as well. I also have the Enkes 18's for headsail sheeting. Seem to be a fairly nice 2 speed. Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Also if you ever come across someone needing pawls, springs, and top covers for Enkes these folks have those in stock.

Liberal flushing and spinning drum with WD40 will assist in dissolving dried up grease. Be prepared for the drum to 'jump' off the spindletho and bearings will go wherever the want to.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.I forgot to say that I have no monetary interest with these folks. Just like to spread good news about exceptional customer service.The slot in the base is a water drainWell, unless they don’t deserve it.The slot in the base is a water drainNot in that order.maybe! Makes it look like it's attaching some secret and very important stuff on the inside of the mast Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Now the stinkin' thing has a stainless ring at the top so I can't get the bearings off. Anyone want a very old winch. I've already purchased a Lewmar 7 to replace it. Thanks again for all of the advice. I sent an email to Holland Marine-Products located in Mississauga Ontario and did receive a reply from them regarding this winch. Was told to rotate and pull at the same time. Holy Moly, they also have spare parts for these as well. I also have the Enkes 18's for headsail sheeting. Seem to be a fairly nice 2 speed. Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Went through there a few times with my dad years ago Now the stinkin' thing has a stainless ring at the top so I can't get the bearings off. Anyone want a very old winch. I've already purchased a Lewmar 7 to replace it. Thanks again for all of the advice. Get a thin blade in and you should be able to unwind it over the shaft.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Does it sound on threads in the center part of the winch?Does it sound on threads in the center part of the winch?Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Thanks again SJB.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.I am doing the main winches as well. I'm very happy with the quality of these. The lithium grease is very light and not at all sticky - which is the reason for not greasing pawls.

It does not create stiction but clings much better than oil. They will run much more quietly as well - tic tic tic instead of clink clink clinkThe lithium grease is very light and not at all sticky - which is the reason for not greasing pawls. It does not create stiction but clings much better than oil. They will run much more quietly as well - tic tic tic instead of clink clink clinkIt would be a lucky hit if they still have them. Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Very friendly, and helpful.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.The lithium grease is very light and not at all sticky - which is the reason for not greasing pawls. It does not create stiction but clings much better than oil. They will run much more quietly as well - tic tic tic instead of clink clink clinkWell, unless they don’t deserve it.I've used Gunk brand which comes in a cup like for sour cream. Auto parts stores usually have it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.I've used Gunk brand which comes in a cup like for sour cream. Auto parts stores usually have it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Old ones look to have about a 5 degree angle on the top. Will that work?Old ones look to have about a 5 degree angle on the top. Will that work?Alternate sources are hobby shops or automotive paint suppliers.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Alternate sources are hobby shops or automotive paint suppliers.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Alternate sources are hobby shops or automotive paint suppliers.Ask around the marina, some goofball sailor has a belt sander he is dying to use for something nautical.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.It's like putting a bicycle tire bead over the rim except you've got an end to start with.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.If you're dealing with snap rings, a tool can be gotten cheap at any auto parts store and is worth getting.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.

If you're dealing with snap rings, a tool can be gotten cheap at any auto parts store and is worth getting.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Took a bit of fiddling around to get the Marlin spike closed.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.What should I use to seal the winch pads to the deck. 4200 or Life caulk? I do have butyl but was told no go. And on the pads I just used a good dousing with Watco teak oil.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Wasn’t hard to remove.With butyl, I'd seal up the top of the fasteners as well as where they meet the deck but not much else. Alternatively, use a thinner, low strength polyurethane to seal the fastener channels and the whole base to deck joint of the pad.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Was very easy to clean up.Not in that order.maybe! A little extra insurance never hurtsWell, unless they don’t deserve it.A little extra insurance never hurtsI counter sunk the holes in the top of the winch pads. Now I'm totally confused. Can I use the butyl for all of the sealing or do I need to use 4200 as well. Sorry for being an idiot. LOL.Was very easy to clean up.Not in that order.maybe! I agree with not mixing the sealants but I would go butyl work the bolts and the bead. I like that butyl stays sticky for a long time, so even if the winches move a bit under load, in my book you stand a better chance of keeping the water out.Just pick a doorWell, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.Well, unless they don’t deserve it.That kind of thing? Couldn’t find the purple font.It's easy! Sign in here. Mark Corke offers a step-by-step guide to servicing this vital piece of deck gear. It pays to look after them. Overhauling a winch for the first time can seem daunting, but approached methodically it can take no more than an hour to service one.

After you’ve done it once or twice, you’ll wonder what the fuss was about. You’ll also need a couple of screwdrivers, one small and one medium size, and perhaps a set of needle-nose pliers for replacing small parts like, pawls. The Lewmar kit, for example, retails for around ?16 and is universal to all their winches. All major manufacturers also have helpful websites. Harken has an online parts list for their complete line. The photos show a small self-tailing Lewmar winch (the differences from manufacturer to manufacturer are minor). The major parts of all winches, as shown in the accompanying diagrams, are very similar and should closely resemble those in the photographs. I once took a winch apart in mid-Atlantic and dropped some vital part over the side, rendering the winch useless for the rest of the passage. It didn’t make me the most popular crew member on board. Use the free weather tool for sailors offering real-time high resolution data in a six day forecast. It ranks almost as high as the lever, which can provide unlimited mechanical advantage and is probably the greatest of man’s tools. A winch combines several of them in a compact package. Much later, someone tired of killing slaves when they lost their grip on the cranks (levers), invented the pawl, and the windlass became a ratchet wheel—which is what the sailboat winch is, a lever that concentrates and controls movement. But it was the conversion from steam power (with beautiful leather belts to run the power around the sweatshop) to electric power that spurred the science of gearing, which epitomizes the Industrial Revolution beginning in England between the 18th and 19th centuries. Electric motors demanded gears, as do more powerful winches with more than one speed. They’re still out there on thousands of sailboats. And you can still buy them; marine consignment shops are clogged with them, at bargain prices.

You’d not see either on Luca Bassani’s huge Wallypaloozas that race in Sardinian waters for the Rolex Cup. Such boats used to be called “Maxis,” but being much larger, are modern shades of Rainbow, the Dodge family’s Delphine, and Sea Cloud, which was only slightly longer than her cereal queen owner’s name: Marjorie Merriweather Post Close Hutton Davies May. (Bassini’s boats were featured in the February issue of Fortune magazine.) They are handy, too, for many tasks aboard larger boats. The only power advantage is that provided by the drum diameter and winch handle. (The power ratio is the length of the handle divided by the radius of the drum.) It’s simple leverage, with two sets of pawls, one to restrain the drum, the other to permit the handle to ratchet freely. On a small boat, the single-digit power ratio provided by the handle often is ample for sheets. Non-geared winches take in line rapidly and often are used for halyards on larger boats. They need only a single set of ratchet pawls. If enough wraps are applied, snubbing winches give the user time to get a new grip or to simply hold the line lightly while friction between the drum and the line takes much of the load. Simple and trouble-free, snubbers are of great value when the line load is no more than one’s weight or pulling strength. They are a good adjunct to the old practice of “sweating up” a halyard by the “heave and hold” method of pulling hard on the line perpendicular to the mast with one hand while grabbing slack on the winch with the other. Unsuccessful attempts were made to include winches by Enkes, a Dutch company whose winches often are seen on European boats, and Nautos (distinguishable by its offset axle), a Brazilian company that has been making marine gear for the last seven or eight years without gaining much of a foothold in the United States. Anodized aluminum gets shabby looking quicker and does not wear as well as chrome (which will wear away in time, too).

Neither is as good as stainless. Bronze is long lasting, but if you want it to look good, you should buy stock in a metal polish company. The finishes used are noted on the chart above. Andersen’s ribs and Harken’s smooth aluminum drums are easiest on the line; Arco-Hutton’s needle peening probably is the toughest on line. Antal, for instance, has a special lightweight series that is fairly new to the market. They’re just different. With a minimum of cleaning and lubricating, they last virtually forever. The exception might be the winches on big racing boats, the kind whose machismo crewmen like to use 8-inch handles to prove they’ve been eating lots of kreplach. A short handle is faster, of course, but it tends to partially defeat the winch’s stated power ratio, which is based on standard 10-inch handles. There are available 12-inch handles for those whose winches lack the needed power. If more power is needed, another option—albeit an expensive one—is to install more powerful winches. Another way to put it is: How much of its power ratio does each winch lose in useless friction? The planks each accommodated three winches (the Meissner was a late arrival and was tested separately). When in use, a plank was secured to the bench with a 2-by-4-inch horizontal “stop” and a steel U-clamp. The winches were positioned to give them the recommended 1- to 20-degree angle at which the line enters the bottom of the winch to minimize overrides. Following the mounting instructions, the output gear of the winch (the one that engages the teeth at the bottom edge of the drum) was placed perpendicular and adjacent to the point where the line first enters the drum. In every case, three turns (the minimum recommended by any winch maker) were taken on the drum before being seated in the self-tailing groove.

For this test, 10 pounds, a very comfortable load, was used, and the high and low gears of the winches delivered loads ranging from 24 pounds (which imitates moderate air loads on a genoa) to 260 pounds (which could be fairly heavy air with a working jib). For anyone other than racing boats, loads beyond those would call for a headsail change. Ten “run-ups” were made with each winch in each gear, unless the yield on the dynamometer proved very stable at lesser numbers. The seemingly slight increase in the length of the torque wrench over a standard handle provides more than 33 percent more power. The loss with these seven winches was about 50 percent, except for the very efficient Andersen. The high-load testing produced no surprises. It might rightly be said that most anything done repeatedly becomes easy. However, winches with self-tailing arms that protrude as little as possible and that have big fixed grooves are easier than those with protruding arms and small spring-loaded self-tailing grooves. For instance, with those winches with big, fixed grooves—the Andersen, LVJ, and Meissner—the line is easy to guide into place; it’s done easily with one hand. With the Antal, Harken, and Lewmar, which have small guide arms and small spring-loaded slots, it often takes two hands. Those winches that open up via simple threads (Andersen, Harken, Lewmar, LVJ and Meissner) are preferable to those (Antal and Arco) that still depend on very difficult to manage—but easy to lose—retainer rings. If you’re a racing sailor who presses hard, winches need to have ample power to handle loads that would not be imposed by a conservative cruising sailor who changes or reefs sails to avoid unnecessary strains on sails or rigging. The Andersen and Antal have high-gear ratios that would quickly bring in the jib sheet. With the Harken and Meissner, the high-gear ratio might mean that you would want to overhand the slack before resorting to the winch handle.

Its ribbed drum is famously gentle on lines, it’s easy to operate and service, and it’s long-lasting metal is easiest to keep looking good. Two years out of Emory University, after a brief stint as a sportswriter, he set out from Miami aboard a 60-year-old wooden William Atkin ketch named Tosca. For 10 years, he and writer-photographer Theresa Gibbons explored the Caribbean, crossed the Pacific, and cruised Southeast Asia aboard Tosca, working along the way as journalists and documenting their adventures for various travel and sailing publications, including Cruising World, Sail, Sailing, Cruising Helmsman, and Sailing World. Upon his return to land life, Darrell became the associate editor, then senior editor at Cruising World magazine, where he worked for five years. Before taking on the editor’s position at Practical Sailor, Darrell was the editor of Offshore magazine, a boating-lifestyle magazine serving the New England area. Darrell has won multiple awards from Boating Writer’s International, including the Monk Farnham award for editorial excellence. He holds a U.S. Coast Guard 100-ton Master license and has worked as a harbor pilot and skippered a variety of commercial charter boats. After fiddling with canvas, old fire hose, and even messing around with some Kevlar, we settled on leather—an old riggers standby. Unable to get location. Try again Constant evolution results in our winches being fitted on board many of the World's premier race boats and performance cruisers. Evo Winch Guides Sport Winch Guides Ocean Winch Guides Registered in England 620277. Luckily, there are a couple of budget ways to create your own self-tailing winches. How to convert your winches to self-tailing. There are three ways to do it. The simplest and most cost-effective way to convert your winches is by installing 'winchers'. These are simple rubbers that hold the rope for you. You could also use a winch conversion kit like Winchmate.

Or you could replace the winches by self-tailing ones. The winchers are easy to install. But make sure you get the right size because otherwise it won't work and the installation can get frustrating. The conversion kit is also a solid way to do it if you have the cash. The last option is A LOT more expensive, and I don't think it's worth the investment. Winches are used to haul in the lines. A self-tailing winch holds the line in place for you. This way, you don't have to hold the line when you're turning the winch. You also don't need an extra pair of hands for pulling the line. So self-tailing winches are the perfect solution for solo sailors. The top drum has a sort of jaw. The line goes into the jaw, which holds the line for you. You install them on your current winches, which means you don't have to do an expensive replacement. They're inexpensive. Installation can be a bit of a pain but shouldn't be too difficult. I'll explain more on this option and how to install them later on. This kit includes an entire new top drum, including the feeding arm. Converting your winch this way creates a true self-tailing winch, ensuring you are in control of your lines. I think you didn't come here looking for the obvious, so I'll leave it at that. If you want to have a cheap alternative, read on. Their winchers fit most winches. It's the KISS (sweet and simple) method. I always go for the KISS way. Their conversion kits are pretty neat as well. You get the entire top part of the winch, so installation is a piece of cake. I guess this is also a good option. Tech specs are better than rubber winchers: First, let's take a look at the pros: They hold up just fine. I've even read some accounts of a 12-ton sloop that uses these, and mid-sized yachts with heavy sails. All without any trouble whatsoever. The wincher grips the line with the rubber underside of the wincher. So if the line doesn't reach all the way up to the underside of the wincher, it doesn't work.

In practice, this doesn't cause trouble. So it's a bit less secure, and you have to make sure the rubber jaw grips the line properly. But in my opinion, this isn't a real problem. I don't know of anybody that had a problem with the jaws not holding the line. But for most people they fit just fine and don't slip at all - even with larger winches. I suggest dry fitting the rubbers before actually installing them - you can always return them and get a more expensive solution. Then, choose the right wincher size from the table below: Which is a nuisance for installation, and a good thing for the grip. This softens them up. You have to be able to stretch them just enough to put them over the top of the winch. Then, take off the entire top drum. It can be an incredibly tight fit. Like all rubber parts, you'll probably wonder whether you've ordered the right size. But hey, the tighter it is now, the firmer it will stay in place later. Then, flip the top rubber edge over the top of the drum by running a screwdriver around the edge (a bit like placing a bicycle tire). The audio is a bit windy but it gets better later on. A self-tailing winch holds the line in place by itself. This means you don't need to hold the line while you're turning the winch, or need an extra pair of hands for pulling the line. Because of this, a self-tailing winch allows you to sail short-handed (solo). The top groove on a rubber wincher is called the jaw, and it's simply used to cleat the line. You don't need to use it when you're hauling in line. You may also use your original cleats. However, some people find it handy to use this rubber cleat on top of the winch. I live in Friesland, The Netherlands, which is famous for its great lakes and lots of sailing opportunities. Since then I've enjoyed sailing very much - and I've never been afraid of the water again. If you want to learn how to make your sailing dream reality within a year, leave your email and I'll send you free updates.

I don't like spam - I will only send helpful content. Please try again.ImproveSailing is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. ImproveSailing is compensated for referring traffic and business to this companies. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I aquired an old sailboat, not sure what make or model yet, took a quick look at it and I am not sure what I have gotten myself in to. I had a question for you experienced sailers. The boat has several Enkes winches on it, some are 22's some are 12's. Does anyone know what these may be worth if I decide to scrap the boat. I cannot really find any info on them, except for the fact the Enkes closed their doors a while back. Any help would be much appreciated. Many racing boats used them because they were built very tough. Parts can still be purchased from a Holland Marine in Canada. I recently saw some self tailing kits for the 22s at a resale shop in Texas. I have the 28s and love them. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. This category is for walk through windshields. There is a separate category for full wrap windshields. When looking for a replacements windshield there are several factors to consider. First is the size and layout, how many panels does it have are they flat or curved. Then you can look at the dimensions to see if they will fit your boat. These boat windshields are great for older boat models where new windshields cannot be found that fit. This category is for used boat windshields and there is a separate category for walk through windshields. When looking for a replacements windshield there are several factors to consider.

First is the size and layout, how many panels does it have are they flat or curved. Then you can look at the dimensions to see if they will fit your boat. These boat windshields are great for older boat models where new windshields cannot be found that fit. This category is for walk through windshields.Make 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMake 50% DepositMeasuring sails for replacement will give you the information you need to purcha. These Non Profit organizations will evalu. UsedBoatEquipment.com is a website for selling used equipment like a. Vented loops or Anti-Siphon Valves: are inverted U-shaped pipes with a vent at the top to let air escape. Vented loops are found in toilet disc. The Engine Panel Visor is a custom cover to protect your boats engine panel from water. This category is for walk through windshields. There is a separate category for full wrap windshields. When looking for a replacements windshield there are several factors to consider. First is the size and layout, how many panels does it have are they flat or curved. Then you can look at the dimensions to see if they will fit your boat. These boat windshields are great for older boat models where new windshields cannot be found that fit. This category is for used boat windshields and there is a separate category for walk through windshields. When looking for a replacements windshield there are several factors to consider. First is the size and layout, how many panels does it have are they flat or curved. Then you can look at the dimensions to see if they will fit your boat. These boat windshields are great for older boat models where new windshields cannot be found that fit. This category is for walk through windshields.